Specialty coffee in the United Kingdom.

Britain drank instant coffee for most of a century, then espresso-bar chains through the nineties, and then, from about 2002, something changed. A few people started roasting light, buying from named farms, and writing about it online. One of them won the World Barista Championship in 2007, opened a roastery in East London the year after, and trained half the people who now run roasteries of their own.

What grew out of that is a scene spread the length of the island. London has the roasteries, the green-coffee traders and the festival. Cornwall has had a direct-trade roaster since 2004. Edinburgh and Glasgow built Scottish specialty from a café on Broughton Street. Bristol, Manchester, Leeds, Birmingham and Bath each have roasters the rest of the country orders from.

The British version has its own habits: a flat white or a latte as the everyday order, oat milk without a surcharge, coffee that arrives through the letterbox in a flat bag, and a taste for the ethics on the label. Several of the bigger roasters are certified B Corps and publish what they paid the farm.

London's founders still anchor the country. Square Mile roasts light for cafés across Britain and Europe and sells its coffee in an unusual 350-gram bag. Assembly in Brixton is wholesale-first, B Corp certified, and run by a former UK roasting champion. Workshop, Climpson & Sons, Volcano, Kiss the Hippo and Caravan each grew out of cafés and now supply plenty of other people's. Monmouth and Union

London holds the most roasters, but Britain's coffee map is unusually even: Scotland, the South West, the North and the Midlands each have hubs with their own founders, festivals and habits.

In the cafés it's milk drinks that pay the rent. Latte and flat white trade places at the top of the order pad depending on who you ask, so most roasters build a house espresso blend to stand up to milk: Colombia, Brazil and Ethiopia anchor most catalogs, and Colombia and Brazil sit under most blends. On the filter side, washed and natural Ethiopians are the reference, Kenya brings the acidity, and Central American lots from Guatemala, Costa Rica, El Salvador and Panama fill the seasonal releases.

Processing follows the same split. Washed coffees carry the blends and the cleaner filter lots, naturals bring the fruit, honeys hold steady among the Costa Ricans, and anaerobic and co-fermented lots sit at the top of the price list, argued over by purists. After washed, the shelves lean on natural (×426) and honey (×54). Rare varieties (Pink Bourbon, Gesha, Sidra, Chiroso) come in small bags at high prices. Decaf is a proper category: sugarcane-process and Swiss Water lots sit in most core ranges, and 281 decaf coffees are listed right now.

At home, Britain brews filter more than it used to: V60, AeroPress and batch brewers, precision scales, and a subscription arriving through the letterbox. 309 of the current listings are roasted for filter or for both methods.

British roasters price in pounds; the figures here are converted to euros so you can compare across the directory. They come from every British coffee currently listed with a price, not a sample we chose. The going rate today is €54 per kilogram, against €47 across every roaster in the directory.

The ladder reads like this: house espresso blends and the big online brands at the everyday end around €44 per kilogram, single origins from the wholesale roasteries from about €65 per kilogram, and the rarest bag currently listed at €350 per kilogram. 2,271 coffees carry a price today. Nearly every shop offers a subscription, flat letterbox bags mean nobody has to be home for the post, and multi-roaster boxes like Rise Coffee Box and The Local Coffee Club will send you a different regional roaster each month.